Abercrombie & Fitch Stores, Inc. v. American Eagle Outfitters, Inc.
61 U.S.P.Q. 2d (BNA) 1769, 280 F.3d 619, 2002 U.S. App. LEXIS 2407 (2002)
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Rule of Law:
Trade dress protection under the Lanham Act requires distinctiveness and non-functionality, with product configurations (designs) requiring acquired distinctiveness (secondary meaning) rather than inherent distinctiveness. Features are functional and unprotectable if their exclusive use would put competitors at a significant non-reputation-related disadvantage, or if they are essential to the use or purpose of the product or affect its cost or quality. Furthermore, to prove infringement, there must be a likelihood of confusion among consumers.
Facts:
- Abercrombie & Fitch (A&F) is a retailer of casual clothing primarily targeting young men and women of college age, operating 157 retail stores and a mail-order catalog, having achieved over $1.4 billion in sales and $26 million in marketing expenditures.
- A&F identifies its “Abercrombie brand” trade dress as comprising nine features, including the use of specific marks (e.g., A&F in Universe Bold Condensed typeface), words like “performance,” “authentic,” and “outdoor” on labels and promotional materials to convey certain images.
- A&F's claimed trade dress also includes design logos (e.g., ski patrol cross, lacrosse sticks), primary color combinations in various designs, all-natural cotton/wool/twill fabrics, a “cutting edge ‘cool’ image” conveyed through its A&F Quarterly catalog, and a consistent in-store merchandise look with college student sales associates.
- American Eagle Outfitters (American) sells essentially the same variety of clothing and products in its 300 stores, generating approximately $300 million in annual sales.
- American's marketing executives directed its store managers to weekly inspect and report on A&F store presentations.
- American introduced its own catalog, which A&F claimed featured similar products, colors, designs, fabrics, product names (e.g., “vintage” sweatshirts), and a paper, page layouts, lifestyle editorial content, and typeface similar to the A&F Quarterly.
- During the district court litigation, American declined to contest, for purposes of its summary judgment motion, the allegation that it intentionally copied various aspects of Abercrombie’s claimed trade dress.
Procedural Posture:
- Abercrombie & Fitch Stores, Inc. (A&F) filed suit in the U.S. District Court, Southern District of Ohio, against American Eagle Outfitters, Inc. (American), claiming infringement of its unregistered trade dress under Section 43(a) of the Lanham Act, Ohio common law of trade dress protection and unfair competition, and the Ohio Deceptive Trade Practices Act.
- American filed its Answer and simultaneously filed a motion for summary judgment.
- The district court granted in part American's motion to stay discovery, ruling that discovery on intentional copying was inappropriate during the summary judgment motion's pendency because American had admitted intentional copying for purposes of the motion, but permitted discovery on similar designs/marketing approaches by third-party retailers.
- The district court granted American's motion for summary judgment in its entirety, reasoning that A&F had sought protection for something that did not constitute trade dress at all, finding the claimed elements "too descriptive and generic" and amounting to an unprotectable "abstract image or marketing approach."
- A&F moved for reconsideration, introducing emails as evidence of consumer confusion, which the district court examined and rejected as irrelevant to its judgment.
- A&F timely appealed the district court's grant of summary judgment to the Sixth Circuit Court of Appeals.
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Issue:
Does a clothing retailer's combination of design features for garments, in-store displays, and a mail-order catalog constitute protectable trade dress under the Lanham Act, and if so, is a competitor's similar catalog confusingly similar?
Opinions:
Majority - Boggs, Circuit Judge
No, Abercrombie's clothing designs and in-store presentations are legally functional and thus not protectable trade dress under the Lanham Act. While the A&F Quarterly catalog design could potentially be protectable, American Eagle's catalog is not confusingly similar as a matter of law. The court first clarified that trade dress can encompass any tangible or objectively observable "thing" that dresses a good, including product designs, catalog layouts, and sales techniques, rejecting the district court's characterization of A&F's claim as an attempt to protect an abstract "marketing theme." The court found that product design trade dress cannot be inherently distinctive, but must acquire distinctiveness through secondary meaning, which A&F's trade dress was assumed to have due to American's admission of intentional copying. However, the court applied the functionality doctrine, which states that functional product features cannot be protected as trade dress, to prevent trademark law from inhibiting legitimate competition. The court adopted the "competition theory" of functionality, determining a feature is functional if its exclusive use would put competitors at a significant non-reputation-related disadvantage. Applying this standard, A&F’s clothing designs (use of words like “performance” and “authentic,” design logos, color/fabric palettes) and in-store presentation (college student sales associates) were deemed functional. There are limited comparable alternatives for competitors to convey concepts like reliability or athleticism on casual clothing or to effectively market to young demographics, meaning that protecting these features would prevent effective competition. In contrast, the A&F Quarterly catalog design (unusual paper, “clothesline” style, grainy photographs, lifestyle editorial content) was deemed non-functional because sufficient comparable alternative methods exist for marketing clothing by mail. Despite this, when assessing the likelihood of confusion, the court found the two catalogs to be dissimilar as a matter of law. While sharing some elements, the overall visual impression differed significantly due to A&F's grainy/erotic photographic style versus American's wholesome/family-oriented imagery, distinct editorial content, and the prominent display of each company's own trademarks throughout their respective catalogs. This strong visual dissimilarity made a finding of consumer confusion impossible.
Analysis:
This case significantly reinforces the functionality doctrine in trade dress law, particularly the “competition theory” of aesthetic functionality, emphasizing that design elements or sales techniques necessary for competitors to effectively participate in a market are not protectable. It clarifies that product designs are rarely inherently distinctive, typically requiring secondary meaning. The ruling demonstrates a practical limitation on trade dress claims, preventing a single entity from monopolizing common or aesthetically pleasing features essential for competition. Even with evidence of copying and secondary meaning, the lack of overall visual similarity, especially when brands are clearly identified, can defeat an infringement claim as a matter of law.
